honest, humble, and down-to-earth critic – bringing you the best and worst of food in the maldives.
there’s hardly anyone at blood orange tonight, it’s just after isha in the second week of roadha. i’m with moosaalhu who wanted to get a drink – but after seeing the menu, i was tempted by a new entry, the hainanese rice congee with chicken. full disclosure, i haven’t properly broken fast because i got into a fight with samfa but that’s another story.
after the order, i notice the woman painted on the wall again.
‘does she have lip fillers?’ i ask moosaalhu.
‘more likely that she ate from here and had a reaction,’ he says.
huh, how ’bout that?
as we wait, i go on my phone, check out the maldives independent, as one does these days, and read the headline:
diminished supreme court weighs MPs’ disqualification.
‘DIMINISHED court?’ says moosaalhu when i show him.
‘maybe they meant belittled court.’
‘hah,’ he says.
the server places his drink on the table.
‘it’s a bit hard to mix with this lemon slice on the rim,’ says moosaalhu and after some attempts moving the straw through the liquid, he finally takes a sip.
‘how is it?’ i ask.
‘pretty good, spicy,’ he says carelessly, as though he hasn’t given it more than a half-second’s thought.
‘did they put chili in it?’
‘no,’ he says. ‘it’s the ginger.’
soon, they bring my congee along with typical hainanese condiments which i spread generously on my dish.
‘aren’t you worried about gas at your age?’ says my friend.
‘like YOU’RE a young man,’ i mutter.
‘you say something?’
i shake my head and eat. and dear god, it is BRILLIANT, a work of singular genius or what passes for that in our tiny town. the congee is a little al dente, which i love, and because of my generosity with the condiments, it has a bit of a garlicky bite. and they are definitely not stingy with the chicken – it gives this dish that soft, meaty flavour. i am absolutely sold.
‘you like it huh? you’ve been quiet for three whole minutes now,’ smiles moosaalhu.
‘it’s amazing,’ i tell him. ‘just fucking phenomenal.’
‘hey, hey, easy with the language,’ he says. ‘it’s roadhamas.’
‘sorry,’ i say and finish up the rest of it. after i’m done, i have a bit of the chili paste on its own, drawing a funny look from moosaalhu.
‘you’ll feel it more going out than in, i think,’ he grins.
‘funny. it’s actually really good. i taste garlic, ginger, sugar, vinegar or maybe lime, chili.’
‘chili in a chili paste, eh?’ he grins. ‘quite the sensitive tongue.’
‘shut up.’
moosaalhu pays the bill by the counter. it’s 99 for my congee plus taxes so i give him 105 in cash. he puts it in his wallet, which has a bunch of 100 rufiyaa notes and 1 dollar bills in it.
‘what the hell are you doing with so much $, man?’
‘none of your business,’ he says and we walk out of the restaurant, fulfilled in our own way.
as we go towards moosaalhu’s bike on fandiyaaru magu, near baag – i mean COLONEL nazim’s house, i see a sign that reads ‘penis’.
‘it’s ‘plus,’ idiot,’ snaps moosaalhu when i point it out to him.
huh, how ’bout that?